FW 2017 show held in Paris last Sunday, has become a milestone for Paul Smith brand. Men's and women's collections were presented on one runway for the first time in the history of the brand.
Androgyny, which is more & more popular trend recently, reigned on the runway this evening: girls paraded in austere gray and black jackets, while men did not neglect jacquard sweaters, colorful shirts and velvet suits of warm mauve and azure shades. The show was held to an unusual soundtrack reflecting the designer’s eclectic musical taste in the main hall of the National Higher School of Fine Arts featuring luxurious mosaic floor, magnificent moldings and weightless glass dome.
After launching the eponymous label in 1970, Paul Smith men's collection was firstly presented in Paris in 1976, and women’s collection in London in 1994. The decision to unite man & woman show is a natural step, as both lines have always shared one concept and featured impeccable cut. The logical fusion happened in the FW 2017 season, as the new collection is a kind of homage, a return to basics that formed the creative vision of the designer back in youth.
In the beginning of his career, which coincided with the heyday of the textile industry in the UK, Sir Paul Smith traveled around the country in search of innovative fabrics’ designs as an employee of the International Wool Secretariat. The new collection is full of recognizable patterns of the oldest British factories, including Lovatt and Hardy Minnis in honor of these missions. There are also traditional British prints, such as "Prince of Wales" checks and the famous Black Watch plaid fabric.
Knitwear also features British accent: Scottish cashmere of muted hues and colorful jacquard add incredible texture and color to austere shapes. Classic floral prints, designed by the fashion house, as well as exclusive Liberty prints of shirts add another British chord.
But, as usual with Paul Smith, classic & casual styles are de-structured: on the level of color screaming red of London phone booths and noble British racing green collide; at the level of textures coarse fabrics are combined with soft silk and cashmere ... As for silhouette - narrow, close-fitting trousers contrast with deliberately enlarged shoulder line. A reference British jackets and trench coats appear in unexpected combinations - with winkle-pickers of snakeskin, comfy sneakers and loose sweater with ethnic motifs.
The essence of Paul Smith is about perfect cut, which is true for both men’s & women’s collections. The joint show has illustrated that the articles look perfect on any stature regardless of gender.
Prints, which famed the fashion house, are also Paul Smith’s hallmark this season. Colorful feathers printed on silk, hand-embroidered on cashmere coats and appliqued on leather accessories, have become the symbol of incredible lightness and brightness of the branded style.