The FW collection 2017/2018 became the swan song of the Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga in Jil Sander, whose place was taken by the tandem of Luke and Lucie Meier. In his final work, he summed up a three-year tenure as the creative director of the house. His collection linked the minimalist aesthetics of the fashion house and the reserved yet special approach of the designer to fashion. "Laconism will always be in demand. It does not require embellishment," - he explains.
Being true to clean lines, graceful silhouettes and magnificent cut, Rodolfo is inspired by the aesthetics of the 80's and plays with proportions: many details are unabashedly borrowed from the "traditional" men's wardrobe and accentuate woman’s figure perfectly.
The designer's favorite Power Suits with deliberately over-sized shoulders, luxurious oversize coats including classic double-breasted ones, and the ones reminiscent of huge down jackets with bulky collars, monochrome cocoon jackets and flowing high-necked dresses are the attires you wants to wear right away.
The seeming austerity of cut is diluted by a self-sufficient palette of tobacco, lime, mustard, azure, burgundy, powder and creamy shades which are in contrasts with coal-black severity.
Quilted skirts and dresses, huge jacket collars, pockets with laps would look very men-like, if not for the deliberately underlined waistline that softens the collection’s austerity.
The fabrics of the collection are traditionally winter. There is cashmere, wool, felt, knitwear & leather. Paglialunga offers metal lurex and dense silk for evening dresses, which are complemented by elegant court shoes or ankle boots.
The protagonist of Jil Sander FW collection is certainly the hero of our time. She is fast, imperious, impudent, self-confident, yet sensual, feminine & airy. She is fast to reach the new tops!